AUSTRIA Vienna

Austria Vienna

Vienna is a few steps into Austria from Bratislava Slovakia. I was determined not to miss the city on my sweep south in the Outback of Europe.

My GPS worked again and was useful to direct me to a parking spot beside the metro. I made sure that i photographed the station so I would not forget where to return to tonight. Vienna was experiencing on of its hottest day this summer. High 30's and reaching in excess of 40 degrees once the big white building started radiating reflected heat. I took a circular tram ride around the city to orientate and find he venues i had circled for further investigation. I played some classical music from Mozart, Beethoven and Chopin on my Ipod as i wandered the streets looking at the massive opera houses where the greats played their music.

The town center was heaving with tourist, ideal if you were a vendor of ice cream and water. I generally avoid the churches but St Peters in the center was well worth a look . Very ornate and gold guilt statues. The Church was cool inside which was another factor in my standing and admiring the architecture and statues. Everywhere in Vienna is a photo opportunity. The amount of top rate statues scattered around the city and in the parks was interesting , Im particularly drawn to the 'Horse and Man', there were plenty of them.

Monday is a bad day for Museum-ing. Staff have worked the weekend when most tourists are about and needed a day off. Never mind there seemed to be plenty to chose from that were open , The fine arts Museum was closed along with the Lipizzaner Museum associated with the Spanish riding school. I could have a tour of the stables and tack rooms but that was at 1500 hrs too late and too hot to linger . The horses are 'at rest', out of the city during the peak of the summer.

I visited the Natural History Museum, I try not to compare the museums but I was very impressed with the presentation especially the bird section. I was able to see birds close up that I have seen on my travels only through binoculars. i.e Cranes , Storks, Eagles, and a vast number of seabirds. The New Zealand section has about 10 Kiwis of the tree varieties in different poses , what really surprised me was the 6 stuffed Kakapo parrots on display in one cabinette. No wonder they are close to extinction.

My next Museum , to escape the heat, was the Palace kitchens , an array of porcelain , cutlery , table settings, crystal, all of varying ages and designs. I thought I had paid to go into the Palace proper but my understanding of the Austrian written language let me down.

The Terracotta Army from China was in town. I planned my visit early to beat the crowds on my second day. Held in a special museum for visiting exhibitions and with the appropriate scene setting representing China I was lead past the introduction of Where, Who, Why, and a 20 minute Video of How, they put together this '8th wonder of the World'. 80 or so warriors , a sample of their steads and a an array of tools and finds, made up the presentation . With the use of lighting and video effects they were able to give a realistic impression of the massive find in China . To look at the unique faces of the warriors , some with smiles , some with stern looks was memorable . I snapped a few photos without flash which illustrate better the variety and intricacy of the warriors .

I took the tram across the Danube River and walked back across to the old town . Tourist boats , pleaser craft and industrial barges make their way up and down the silted waters . This was further than i anticipated a the Danube has two main channels at Vienna and a separate canal which the main town is centered . The two main river sections were a kilometer wide each separated by a meridian island used for sports and recreation.

Vienna city is a loverly city clean, tidy and well organized. I'm sure there would be many more attractions that I will follow up on my next visit.

On to Hungary and Budapest,

I wonder what will happen next

Alvin

SLOVAKIA Tatras

Slovakia

Log Number 20

Grant Chinn's flight was one hour late arriving into Katowice, Poland ,a 0030hrs touchdown. I had trouble finding a park at the airport as it was so busy. The airport services a population of some three million people in the south of Poland. Huge numbers of Poles now reside elsewhere in the EU in search of higher pay and lower unemployment than they find at home. Flights were arriving from the Middle East, Scandinavia and of course London.

It is great to have my travel buddy sitting in the navigates seat again and sharing the driving. It didn't take long for us to harmonize our plans for the next few days.

Birkenau II was the biggest death camp ever constructed. We were on site at 0900 hrs. First impression was of the enormous size of the establishment - more than 200 acres of fenced compounds all systematically laid out around the three railway arrival platforms. Between 1942 and 1944 several million incoming Jews, Gypsies, Homosexuals and a range of other 'undesirables' from all over Europe were drafted either for immediate gas chamber death or into the workforce to assist the German war effort for as long as they were physically able. Row after row of crumbling brick chimneys are all that remains of around two thirds of the camp buildings, following the retreating Nazis' desperate efforts to burn the evidence of their hideous crimes. It is difficult to imagine that over 400 tortured souls were crammed into the drafty wooden buildings originally designed to house a few dozen horses.

Snuggled in under the Tatars mountains on the Polish side is the ski resort town of Zakopene. We made this our destination for the end of the first day, a good choice. The centruim was full of activities and events as if it was market day . The structure of the houses had changed to Bigger and bolder . Log cabins and massive hotels and resorts . This town seemed to be buzzing in the summer and i would expect even more busy when the snow covers the surrounding mountains. We wandered the town . Found a nice restaurant on the main street for our evening meal and let the town come to us. Sitting still allows you to observe the traders and hawkers selling their wares . Beggars adopted a very submissive pose on the side of the street. He was given five handouts from varying people as they passed . He soon wandered to the local alcohol take away and topped up his needs .

An early start had us u to the Boarder between Poland and The Slovak Republic. A slight delay of 15 min as the Kiwi passport was a rare commodity in the hills and the senior had to be consulted.

The mountain views are fabulous made better by the abundance of wild flowers and seemingly endless expanse of Spruce forest which extends right up to the snow line. These sort of view necessitated several stops for Cuppa's and photos opportunities. Skiing and mountaineering in Slovakia is also an industry that has become very important to the economy. The ski lifts to the High Tatra's operate during the summer which was to our advantage. Grant took no persuasion to come up to the top . Mountain wildlife was out to play in the sunny morning. Marmot whistled their shrill warnings to their family members , probably a eagle flying high above as i don't think the people on the chair lift would warrant a second glance from them now. We had planned to ride the gondola right up to the top , when i seen the rise of the suspension wires heading into the clouds i was secretly pleased it was fully booked until 1630hrs . Instead we road the triple ski lift up to the south saddle still an impressive rise and afforded the views down into Poland across craggie ridges.

It was time to chew some mile towards Bratislava where Grant had a mid afternoon flight back to London tomorrow . He chose the Unesco acclaimed mountain village of Banska Stiavnica as our Roost for the night. He planned to get an Hotel for the night which would be great so I could have my first bath for 5 weeks. Most o the town was booked out because there was a jazz festival on in town. Medieval displays , music and dancing filled the main town square. We wandered about conscious that we didn't have the entrance fee bangle around our wrists. Two warriors were engaged in a very strenuous sword fight . Which seemed to wax and wane between the two combatants . Sweat and heavy breathing was brought on from the heavy chin link vests and Armour . Eventually Long Hair seemed to inflict a mortal blow and his Green checked Pattern opponent fell to the deck breathing heavily but relieved the ordeal had finished. I met a Slovakian Dr who told me of the history of the town back to the 12 century. Gold and silver was the source of the wealth and economy . The geography is of five volcanoes standing in isolation away from the main backbone the Tatra's bringing to the surface valuable minerals. The area is a mixture of small farming and spruce forests . In the valleys dammed reservoirs, previously for the mining industry , are very scenic and used for recreation. A perceived treat from the Turks in the 15^th century seen the defensive walls go up and the inner scantum centered around the main church fortified . A massive monument has been erected in the town square following the Plague which swept through Slovarkia in the 17^th century.

The entertainment continued up until 2200 hrs, the grand finales was a fire dancing routine. The gypsies dressed in period costume put on a 30 minute display . Most impressed with strenuous crowd appreciation.

Bratislava old town and castle entertained for the last three hours i had Grants company. We walked to the Castle arriving dehydrated and sweating profusely . This is the hottest day i have experienced on this trip . I must be in the High 30s today. I utilized the air conditioning units which hold the ambient temp in the castle to a steady 21 degrees . These where necessary because the silk tapestries some 600 years old would not tolerate the temp fluctuations that I had been experiencing. The Danue river flows below the Castle . Very silty river and fast flowing past Bratislava . Barges heavily laden with Coal and timber slowly made their way up stream.

It was good to have had the chance to get out of the driver seat while Grant was with me . He had covered about 800 km with me over the last three days . I dropped him at the 'kiss and wave' at Bratislava Airport. This evening I crossed over to Austria . I pulled into a small village and found a spot to have my evening meal and watch the sun go down over the fields of sunflower, wheat, and barley. 30 minutes before sun set the hares started to venture out onto the open ground. They were initially wary of the van parked in their back yard but soon settle down to feed on new shoots coming out of the ploughed wheat fields . Three deer ventured out of the wood to feed on or in amongst the sunflowers.

I wonder what will happen next

alvin

POLAND Lubin

Poland

Alvin's update

Lubin Plains

Log 19

From Warsaw I headed south east, back to the rural plains around Lubin. All my plans to go back to Warsaw changed after the debacle of not remembering my train station. I soon found a mechanic with a Mig welder, on my way out of the city, who fixed the exhaust leak. I snapped on a new fuel filter which has eliminated the fuel leak. My gas supply remains dubious, i have had to put an oversize Polish cylinder in the wardrobe and run the hose via a new hole drilled in the floor of the WR connecting it to the Gas Cupboard . I remain skeptical about the seal and switch the gas supply off when not needed . This has stuffed my Fridge as it runs on Gas during the day and night, it was time to have a throw out anyway.

I have been telling you all the positive aspects of my travels but the negative can be as interesting as well. Towards mid afternoon the sun was real hot, I decided to take advantage of the heat and attend to the most of my clothes washing , It not easy to find a laundry service in this nick of the woods because there are very few tourists. I have not seen another campervan or tourist bus since i left Warsaw. I filled the ballast water tank to the top with H2O and sought a place where i could scrub and hang the clothes to dry . I found a spot just behind a village where they have their weekly market. The towns sewage plant was nearby but I could not detect any pong from there . A small fire was burning about 100 meters away . Rubbish was being burned, there was the strong smell of burnt plastic pervading the air. I decided to tolerate the smell while attended to the washing.

Once started the wind changed and I was getting the full force of the pollutants from the fire but I persevered and soon had the fence covered in Tee Shirts, shirts, trousers, and my undies, I put the sleeping bags out to air. They felt damp after a weeks rain and little ventilation through the van.

I wandered over to the fire and spread it so it would extinguish itself in time which worked after 30 minutes. I had a range of visitors all wondering who and what i was doing. Several teenagers can and sat in close proximity drinking beer and chatting . Probably marking their territory and tying to encourage me to move on. The rain recommenced , my clothing was 80% dry, still too wet to put away . I utilized a small overhang in the market to put the damp clothing and made my evening meal. Cauliflower, potatoes, Peas and Ham, I ripped open a tin of mixed fruit for sweets.

I watched the bird settle for the evening . Starlings,in their thousands, had a massive roosting tree nearby and were flat out catching up with the days news and events with one another. The Jack draws sat high on the power lines The young birds among them occasional squabbling and causing their neighbor to fly off temporarily. High in the sky six cranes flew by . Their flight was slow and direct. The wingspan must have been two meters and were flapped in a slow rhythmical pattern as they headed west. Their long legs acting as a rudder to keep them on course. A farmer bought in his two cows for the night . The old Frisian cows had been tethered in a field nearby . As they waddled past with massive udders it was obvious they were about to be milked . A permanent chain is fastened around the stub of their horns , the chain being about 20 feet long was being dragged along . The old girls had learnt to walk with their heads to one side to avoid treading on the chain.

The remainder of my clothes still hadn't dried so I decided to camp for the night and get an early start in the morning. I was awake at 0530. Made a cuppa and had some toast with tomato's. I got out through the cabin side door and had a stretch and yawn. Grabbed the still damp clothes and made ready to go. I slid the side door shut and went to the drivers side door which was locked . Then began my problem . I had locked the bloody keys inside. The campervan has additional security, all door lock down on the main front door . Stuff it, was standing in a teeshirt trousers and shoes. I pushed and pulled probed and twisted but no way was the van going to let me back in to reach the tantalizing keys hanging in the dashboard.

It would be another two hours before a mechanic would even be thinking of going to work. I walked the village to locate my options. I soon chilled down as the morning was cold and a light breeze soon lowered my body temperature. The locals where about their routines of sweeping up after the rain, feeding animals and taking yesterdays milk in small cans on push bikes to the collection point. I located three mechanics workshops in the first 30 minutes and soon found myself back at the van . I had kept my frustration under control but the sight of the keys dangling just out of reach was getting to me.

At 0700 I spotted a car turn into one of the garages i had identified earlier. I wandered down and explained my predicament with simple sign language. He quickly understood my plight and offered me a coat. His son could speak English and would be at work around 0830am , he would be able to help. He made me a strong black coffee which was hard to swallow but I welcomed the warmth in my stomach. Feeling warmer I wandered across the road to the rivers edge . Fishermen had their lines in since daylight. I thought I'd wander past and have a look into their catch bags to see if and what they were catching.

From down the river a bit i seen the mechanic and two others drive down to the van and commenced trying to open the lock. I hurried after them, needing to travel 500 meters, and arrived to find they had put and inflatable bag, like a BP Cuff, into the door jam and puffed it up straining the door probably hoping the catch would burst open . I soon put a stop to that stratagie, Their next act was to try to trip the lock mechanism by inserting a wire down the glass of the drivers window . Unsuccessful also.

One of the buggers climbed up onto the roof using the bike rack on the back . He began pulling and lifting the skylights which I knew were only locked down with flimsy plastic catches . Before he would listen to my protestation he had snapped a securing plastic clip which will be hard to replace. He soon understood my stronger language. "Get down off the F****** Thing" . I resolved to cut the rubber round the front drivers quarter window to gain entry before these bugger demolished my van. The mechanic was able to get a second hand rubber surround for about £20.00 . We soon had the new one installed and I was pleased to give him back his coat and point the van towards Lubin.

I wonder what will happen next

POLAND Warsaw

Poland Warsaw

070807

Log 1.

You sometimes do some silly bloody things when you are traveling alone. Yesterday I drove towards Warsaw. I had been warned to "Not Drive in Warsaw"and "Parking very Difficult" so I found a spot by the railway about 10 km out of town. I had arrived at midday therefore had the afternoon to orientate and find the spots to interest me tomorrow in the city.

After my cuppa and small meal of smoked chicken and left over Spuds and Cold Corn, ( I still cook to many each meal so have spud left overs most days ) I walked to the train station only 500 meters away.

The lady at the Kase couldn't understand a word i was saying and couldn't sell me a ticket to Warsaw for some unknown reason. I chanced it and jumped on the express to town. I seemed to arrive at Central in a flash, Gratis of the Polish Rail. Centralna Station Warsaw is big even by London standards. All the station is underground, a maze of tunnels. The signs are excellent if you can understand Polish. I headed for the daylight.

The most imposing of the buildings in Warsaw is the 40 story Palace of Culture and Science . I spotted a sign to the lookout, paid my dues at the Kasi and proceeded to the lifts. From the top, I looked out over post war construction, Glass towers, New Hotels and a substantial financial district. Away in the distance new housing tower blocks dot the skyline in all directions , uniform in height about 10 stories tall. About 2 km on the edge of the Vistula river was the Old Town. I have seen enough Museums to do me for a month or so but I was sure to find some food and sights to entertain me for the afternoon in the Old Town.

I chose the underground, another option was to walk or take a bus or tram which seemed to be going in the general direction. Down in the bowels of Warsaw I had the same dilemma, no signs in English. I bought a 24 hrs ticket for 7.50 Zoloty about £1.20 and charged through the barriers as if i knew what i was doing and where i was going. One stop on the tube, seemed to be about 2 KM of rattling and shaking so I pounced off and headed for the daylight. As I was going up the stairs i was asked direction from a fellow Aussie traveler who it would appear, had the same range of anxieties that i had. I must have looked confident anyway.

The Royal castle is the biggest building in the Old town, It was deliberately destroyed on Hitlers Orders. Put back together between 1971 & 84. Inside are 20 or so paintings from Canalleto who's paintings recorded Warsaw's architecture in such detail that they were able to be utilize in the reconstruction of the cities monuments and buildings. A temporary exhibition was currently available, swords, knives, shields and Armour . They wanted extra money, so i moved on to walk the old town, earwigged a English speaking tours whenever i could. I found that i was getting too much superfluous info and began wandering on my own.

The buildings, only 50 years old, looked old especially with broken plaster work and shonkie paintwork to add age to their appearance, The streets were well patronized with tourists buying trinkets , fake fur hats, postcards and an array of novelty items pertaining to Warsaw and Poland. A particular blue grey fox fur hat took my interest, Christ knows where ill get to wear it its not cold enough on New Zealand . The bargaining began soon as a went to walk away the price dropped by 500 down to 450. I asked for his calculator so i knew the conversion to UK pounds . I offered 200 and received an indignant look, I lingered for a moment but no response other than "Very, Very, Good Fox" . The deal remained, not done.

A walking tour from my LP, took me to most of the highlights of the old town. I was very curious about the 'Monument to the Warsaw Uprising' a significant event that happened towards the end of the war, 1944. The short version goes like this. The Poles hoped for more help to liberate their city especially from the British forces who had encouraged oppositional actions and from the Red Army which had advanced to within view of the conflict and were camped across the Vistula river, they wanted them to join and Ousting the Germans. This did not happen and after lengthy struggle and severe bombing the Germans took control , thousands where killed.

On my way south driving to Warsaw, I camped up a side road in a nice secluded spot. I read my Lonely Planet as i settled for the night . Further up the road 10 km was the site of Treblinka 2 the extermination camp. Unlike Auschwitz nothing remains other than the Huge Granite Monument and some interpretation panels showing the layout . Somewhere beneath the grass , mingled with the sand , lies the ashes of some 800,000 thousand human being. ( 3 times the population of Christchurch )

Horse and traps clip clop around the cobbled streets . The horses are shod with special shoes with rubber across the heel to reduce the noise levels in the narrow streets. I noticed they have bags permanently slung under their tails to catch the used oats and chaff as it is ejected . I only suppose that if it was left to drop on the cobbled streets it would be very difficult to remove, stink like hell and by catching it in the bag the shit is able to be recycled and also eliminates the hazard posed to tourists who generally look up not down.

Wandering back towards the central train station I suddenly had a shot of adrenaline when i realized I had not taken note of the station where i had left the campervan at midday. I thought it was Pembertoski or something like that . Stuff it, I should have written it down , Bev would been more diligent but she was on the other side of the globe, asleep. At the central station I found the Kasi and asked for a train to Pembertoski.. The ticket clerk looked at me blankly, she obviously could not understand my language or a station mis pronounced or non existent. I stood out of the que with reluctance to gather my thoughts, looking for someone who might speak the English. Four people just shrugged and walked on , they had a home to go to, unlike me. Two others said there isn't or never was a station called Pembertoski.

I went back up to daylight. tramps, vagrants and other lost souls had begun to select their spots on the park benches. I was looking round to find a lame, weak, clean tramp that i could wrestle his overcoat off. Probably a very rare commodity. In that way I would a least be warm, while aimlessly wandering looking for the camper-van. I retraced my steps to the platform that I thought i had exited the express. It dawned on me that I had about seven or so stops back across the river towards the south. One of the stops was Pradg, the southern suburb of Warsaw. If I watched out for the womens prison that i noted on my way in then i was getting closer to my destination .

I found a train map. Bugger, there was an added complication, Metro, intercity or Tram services , all had different stops. No such name as Pembertoski. Then i spotted the one i needed the sixth stop on the intercity,the one I needed was Sulejowek. How could i have forgotten something so simple.

The sun is shining today, the first fine days for a week . The van is damp from the rain, I need to attend to my house work , clothes washing, replenish the tucker, fix the exhaust which has developed leak after i drove into a road side pothole much bigger than anticipated. Then i need to track down a fuel leak which seems to be getting worse.

I can't get my usual gas bottles refilled in Poland so Ill have to adapt and hope. If the gas connection leaks it will be one sure way of getting a good nights sleep.

I wonder what will happen next

Alvin

POLAND Bailowieza

Poland Bailowieza National Park

Log Number 17

The Bailowieza National Park is the oldest in Poland . Established back in 1921. It's history goes back a long way further because the Tsar's and Kings kept this forest for their private hunting region. A super big palace, hunting lodge was built along with all the associated gardens support staff accommodation and stables.

During WW1 millions of cubic meters of timber was extracted from the park and the gradual colonization of the perimeter has diminished the eco system . Originally there was a full range of european animals including brown bear but these were eliminated to keep the domain for the European Bison for hunting purposes. The total area of the NP is only 10500 Ha which is small compared to most but it is coupled with the adjoining National Park of Belarus, Russia, which is slightly bigger more than doubles the size of lowland forest with NP Status.

There are two special aspects to this NP. One being an area of 47 sq Kilometers of Pristine Primeval lowland forest set between two rivers and the reintroduction of the European Bison which was at the brink of extinction with only a few remaining in Zoos around the world in 1929. Two were bought back to Bailowieza Park to their origin's. Now about 400 live wild in the forest with several hundred more in captive breeding programs around Poland and in other countries.

The pristine primeval lowland Forest is designated a 'Strictly Protected Area' within the surrounding NP. No motorized vehicles are allowed and access is by permit and with a guide. Trees falling across the tracks have to be removed by manual means rather than using chainsaws. There was a break in the weather while I was at Bailowieza, but no groups where booked to go to the SPA. I could have and English speaking guide for about £35.00 , the best investment/ value for money available.

Eric had only recently passed his competency in speaking English but had been a guide to the forest for the last four years. Prior to this he was a forester in another area of Poland so he had a bundle of knowledge about the forest and its inhabitants. He went though his spiel about the history of the park pointing out important monuments to past great Tsars who had boasted of their daily bag of 42 Bisons. He showed me pictures of the hunting lodge before it was deliberately destroyed by fire on Hitlers direct instructions. All that remains is the Main Gates and the stables which has been converted to student accommodation and a Learning Centre.

The Royal Park on the edge of the NP has a garden set out with great vistas towards the SPA. Trees have been brought from all round the world. There have reached the age of 160 yrs and are grand specimens. The walk we went on into the SRA was a total of 7 km . He pointed out all the different trees species mainly Oak, Elm, Spruce, pine and an array of other types.

What was strikingly obvious was the amount of dead wood on the forest floor . In managed forests these may be up to 20% dead wood 80% live wood . In the SPA however this is reversed. The amount of rotting timber and vegetation allows a range of animals to survive where they could not otherwise find enough food source.

The Height of the forest canopy averaged between 60 and up to 85 meters for the tallest Spruce .500 year old Oaks had gun-barrel straight trunks for the first 30 mts before the first branch, They think the trees don't grow past 600 yrs old in this forest because of the Humidity, Fungi and stem to root ration. In England oaks are generally low and sprawling with massive root structures enabling them to have over a thousand birthdays. The Spar Pine was over one meter at breast height and straight and true up to 40 mts to the first branch. This type of tree was very sort after when sailing ships where all the go.

Woodpeckers have found paradise here. There are twelve species of woodpecker some small some colorful and the largest black woodpecker has a body the size of your fist . His holes into dead spruce stand out. Eric pointed out how carefully they are constructed. The top of the hole has a hood or porch and the bottom has an incline from the bottom of the hole back up into the center to drain any water that runs down the tree away from the nest site. Clever Birds.

Given the mass of undergrowth and rotting wood , there is a myriad of Bug, Insects, Worms, Fungi that kept Eric's presentation interesting and informative. There has been traces of ancient neolithic pottery found and traces of ancient human activity and grave sites. Honey bee keeping was a small activity that was allowed by the Tzar's up until the turn of the century. Bee keepers made caver ties high up in the massive trees to encourage bees to build hives. The Brown Bear also likes honey and the keepers devised a method to help deter the Bear from robbing the honey . They dangled heavy Oak Posts from points higher up the tree so that it required the bear to push it way to gain entry to the hive. This would frustrate the bear and he would strike at the post sending it out of the way . This would have to effect of either deterring or cause the bear to fall to the ground. Spiked poles were placed strategically at the base of the tree for any such eventuality.

My three hour personalized guided tour was fabulous. I asked him about the Tsar who claimed to have killed 42 Bison in one day. To me it was impossible in the type of forest as one shot would have scattered the Bison herd for miles and would have made them very gun shy. Eric enlightened me that evidence of several corals had been found . On the side of the coral had a large wooden platform for the Fat Tsar to sit up in comfort. The animals where probably lured into the enclose with food and then driven past the shooting platform so the Tsar could have a safe shot at close quarters. More like a slaughter house than natural hunting.

The undergrowth had nettles and a stinking plant called wound-wart. It smelt like a dead decomposing mouse, a pungent pong that you could get a whiff of every now and again . A light rain added to the ambiance of the forest, light was able to penetrate down to the undergrowth especially where spruce trees had died off after an infection of Spruce beetle attack. Woodpeckers could be heard tapping at trees. We could see where the woodies had been placing pine cones in crevices on the Oak trees for their winter food supply.

I visited the Museum of the National Park, again i had to pay for a guide to show me around. The stuffed animals which are presented in their natural surroundings, Beaver,Otter, Pine matins, Wolves, elk, Red Deer, Roe Deer, Bears and Wild Boar to name a few. Last year was a good year for oaks and there was an abundance of acorns therefore a lot of the young wild boar survived to adulthood. The forest dwelling birds are a subject on their own but I'm sure you will have had enough of my rabbiting on .

One more thing . Timber is cut in the fall / autumn and left until the ground freezes that way it will slide across the ground with minimal impact on the vegetation and a pair of draught horse can easily pull either a slay or the individual logs. Two things, the rare black stork lives on the river edge in the SPA they have different diet needs to the common white stork who live on frogs and insect in close proximity to human populations. Enough Rabbiting, I enjoyed the National Park being a Verderer myself

I wonder what will happen next.

Alvin

POLAND Hitlers hide away

\Wolf's Lair ( Wolfschanze )

Log Number 16

In the top right corner of Poland, ( east Prussia) directly under Leningrad, hidden in thick forest is the Command Center Hitler used to oversee the eastern invasion into Russia . He lived in massive bunkers, with walls up to 8 meters thick, constructed to protect himself and his high command such as Goring and Borrman. The complex has a total area of 18 hectares and accommodated a support staff of 2000 administrators, typist, artisans etc .

I hired a Guide to walk me around the site , Jadwiga, a very experienced guide and indicted areas of interest and interpreting the mounds of rubble strewn about in the forest. The building of wolfs lair commenced in 1940. Hitler lived in the base from 1941 to left in 1944 just before the Russian Red arm arrive.

A railway line ran to the site, Hitler came to Wolfslair in his Bullet proof train, a trip of 12 hours from Berlin. Food and supplies arrived this way. Mosquitoes , and the freezing cold must have been a massive inconvenience. Now the area has regenerated forests but the old trees which formed part of the camouflage remain. Wire strangulation marks and wounds on the older oak trees indicate where the camouflage nets where slung

An attempt to kill Hitler was undertaken at the Camp by several of his high command who realized the futility of Hitlers plans and considered that there was no real chance of victory. The rational behind the attempt was to negotiate peace with the west after eliminating Hitler.

After the guided tour , i revised the blown up bunkers to video and photograph. Im luck i couldn't understand the signs, bringing to the publics attention that entering the ruins was not allowed.

The weather forecast is for heavy rain for the next few days . I will head off to the lake district on my way to the Bialowieski National Park on the boarder with Belarus , Russia.

I wonder what will happen next.

Alvin

POLAND Gdansk

Poland Gdanck

02.07.07

Log 15

Gdansk is Poland's third biggest city for tourists behind Warsaw and Krakow. I anticipated parking problems an took the opportunity offered from the blue sign ( P 24 ). Driving into a disused industrial site 50 – 60 cars where already settled . I chose a spot and proceeded to manoeuvre in. A women appeared from the office waving her arm yelling something incomprehensible. I reverted to sign language, which is now my best ally. She soon realized i could not understand her rantings and desisted joining me in our mutual language of point and shoot.

I entered the Main Town ( Glowne Miastro) via the Green Gate, part of the 14 century defensive wall around the city. I was immediately swept back in time 300 to 400 years. I had inadvertently entered the fully restored heart of the City. I am looking for words to describe the street, now called the 'Royal Way'. 'Gob-smacked' will do . The town Hall with imposing Gothic Tower is the tallest structure on the street . It had is beginnings in 1330 but has changes over the centuries to accommodate the varying needs of the city. Tours of the town hall are free on Mondays, I took advantage to see all the ornate furniture and decorations. To think this was a burnt out, smelly, smoking rubble heap in 1945 following repeated bombings had me intrigued. Of course the street is filled with Buskers, trinket & food stalls, pedal taxi and an array of Amber Stalls . Amber is found on the Baltic Coast and has become an industry in itself.

I wandered and gazed at old Churches, Fountains, Statues, Towers, Bridges, Shops all with richly carved facades and mural paintings. I needed to remind my self that this was all restored from old painting, photos and historical records that may have survived WW2. Of course there is modern buildings as well but they are back from this main tourist area. McDonalds has the golden arches represented amongst the newer post war constructions.

I took the ferry down the waterway to get a perspective of the massive Gdansk Shipyard. I gleamed from the commentary , mainly in Polish , that there has been a decline in ship building industry in Poland. 80% of the dry docks where vacant even so there was fifteen to twenty ships being repaired or altered . The Coal loading facility looked to be in full swing as Poland is a big exporter of the black fuel source.

South of Gdansk I visited the Malborg Castle another castle with its history beginning back in the 12^th century. Trying to beat the crowds i was at the kassi at 0800hrs . "Can I also have an Audio Guide please" . The Billet dispenser said " Get Guide Inside the Outside castle". Not comprehending and being in a que, I moved off to main gate with ticket in Hand. Presented to the Official in Security Uniform who wanted to see my receipt for the transaction as well. Luckily it was handy and I was able to show it to him. He indicated something to his colleague who then became my shadow.

I commenced videoing the Main Gate , Portcullis , Hinges on the gates, The cobbled stone work, The Transep around the perimeter wall and moved off to the Inner Courtyard. This courtyard was on a steady incline up to a second Gate made up of a lawned square with a few trees and flower beds. The Cobbling around the Yard we very decorative and had a distinct pattern to the laying of the stones rather than a haphazard methods used on ordinary roading. Four story building surrounded the yard of approximately a hectar. I passed the video camera over all this, focusing on the make up of the windows and doorways. My personalized security man was always just out of shot but nearby, I re slung the VC in its pouch on my hip and proceeded to the museum part.

The "Inside the Outside castle", now made sense to me as there was an inner and outer Castle. On entering the museum building I was offered a Audio Guide and given instruction on its use . The whole Castle complex has been restored following WW2. The Internal arches and light effects entering the Hallways made a good opening shot to demonstrate that i had moved from the external to internal. I pulled the camera while still listening to the introduction and put it up to horizontal.

From out of my right the security man appeared at pace and said with a loud voice that i could clearly hear over the earphones " Ya Cunt". I instantly moved from 'tourist mode' to 'Psychiatric Nurse Mode'. I was snapped back to thinking I was dealing with the unpredictable client group i had been looking after in South East London. I turned to confront and assess what was going on, and to see what had bought on this sudden abuse . He kept coming towards me which heightened my defenses and raised my preparedness. The situation was defused when he pointed to the video camera and waved his right index finger. I gleamed from his gestures that videoing in the museum was forbidden. On reflection he was probably trying to say in English, "Sorry Sir , You can not video in this part of the Castle" .

My shadow followed me around all the exhibits of coins collection, War Armour, Guns, Spears, Swords, Prints of masters, and mock jewellery from years gone by. I'm sure that I have seen much more in one small room in the 'Wallace Collection' in London than was left in the vast museum which was being so preciously guarded. A small reflection of past exploitation of Poland . The heating system was intriguing , Stones where heated in a bread baking oven type enclosure. The fire was then extinguished or move to the adjacent fireplace . The latent heat from the stones where then vented to various parts of the complex.

I had lost my desire to Video the castle while visiting the Inner castle and the tourist Numbers had increased markedly, each room of the massive elephant sized castle seemed to have a tour group being spoken to in a language other than english.

I meet some fellow travellers in a campervan who gave me their excess fresh butter beans, a cauliflower, some carrots and a small bag of new potatoes which they had been give as a gift and was surplus to their needs. I will have a big meal tonight after I have to travel across to the Polish Russian Boarder this afternoon, weather permitting . 5000 miles ticked over today

I want to see Hitlers, Easter Front, Command Center, Wolfs lair.

I wonder what will happen next

Alvin

PS : Flick me an Email if you are sick of recieving my ramblings and Ill take you off the mail out

POLAND Pomerania

Poland Pomerania

30/07/07

Driving off the ferry boat and out into Poland, a stark contrast from across the Baltic in Sweden. I had not driven 2 Km when i found the traffic was being held up by a horse and cart heading home from a hard days toil in the forest. The quality of the roads had also dropped several grades , Broken concrete and large potholes where trucks had slipped off into the gutters . Mind you this was the port area and heavy traffic on soft under lying sand and mud will always give rise to humps and bumps .

I drove 20 minutes to get away from all the action and found my self on the perimeter of one of Poland's smallest National Parks, Wolin. I located a parking Zone and was ushered into a tight spot beside a Semi. I was expecting much more business later in the night as the Parking space was a sealed disused factory forecourt, able to accommodate several hundred trucks. I slept soundly and in the am,found that i was the only vehicle still in the parking space 0600hrs,

Wolin NP is well presented, tidy with signage in Polish,German and English, It is one of the best beach holiday destination for ramblers from all over Poland. The landscape is of small rolling hills which came about from the melting of the ice sheet years ago. Bison have been reintroduce to part of the park in an effort to bring them back from the brink of extinction. I have seen another relocated Bison herd in Kent, England at the Howlett Zoo.

The vegetation is so luxuriant at present there was little hope of spotting them . The forest is pristine, very limited undergrowth with tall straight Oak's, Pines and Beech. I stopped and listened to an array of bird I haven't heard before. Large black and white Storks are nesting on top of power poles . There dirty white coats and long red beaks and legs straddling chicks. A family of 8 Cranes had landed for a spell on a recently tilled paddock. These birds stood nearly a meter tall, dull Grey and black in color with crimson head feathers , no tail feathers similar to an emu. Two of them were constantly on alert while the other fed.

The main roads are narrow and single lane giving rise to the potential for road rage. I have seen some lunatics today , passing with only seconds to get back on to the correct side of the road. I was telling myself to be vigilant when something out the drivers window caught my attention. In the time I took my eyes of the oncoming to have look . An idiot swerved out and was coming straight at me on my side . I took the correct evasive action and headed for the verge . He kept coming, overtaking the car on his side and missing my front left by half a meter. Bastard.

I thought the secondary roads may be safer. Well they are like riding a bucking bronco . Pothole and Narrow broken verges and still the locals want to pass and do so when there is signs indicating dips bridges or ridges. The big 100 year old Oakes ine the roads, Where there is a root structure there is a Hum and between the trees at interals of 20 meters is the hollow. Hawkers and touts surrounded me in a town called Slupsz ( Sloop Che ) wanting to sell post cards and trips round the town. They soon went to the next victim when i proceeded to making a cuppa .

I camped beside a disused factory complex last night . Woke at daylight and thought Id get on the road before Poland woke up. The morning mist , lakes and farm-scapes where wonderful this morning , i pulled over several times take photos . I soon had to be driving at full speed as all he Poles where rushing to get to work and continuing to put their lives and others in jeopardy doing so.

I was soon rushed in to GDANSK in the rush hour traffic . Its near impossible to navigate and drive

I wonder What will happen next

Alvin

SWEDEN Oland

29th July 2007
Log Number 14

500 kms south of Stockholm was my next destination. My Great Great Grandfather was born on Oland in 1847. He had a brother Peter and that is the basis of my information to try to find some ancestry. They travelled buy Boat out to Australia and New Zealand.

The weather had turned for the worst, cold and blustery, rocking the van round on the highway and making driving more difficult. I generally drive for about 2 hrs before having a break . It surprising who you can meet buring breaks, on the road . Swedes are very helpful and want to tell you about their country and some nice spotsto check out .

The laptop has been a good investment , helped me keep track of my outgoings and I have logged where have been camping, according to latitude and longitude. The spreads sheet also encompasses the mileage , temperature and fuel use . All to be analyzed in the future . Wi Fi connection to the outside world is also becoming very prevalent. It is genealy possible to get a connection by pulling up in the centrum or in a densely populated area .

After an evening meal I generally rest for a while then pull out the laptop and link with friends and family. Thanks to those who are keeping me updated with events in their lives. You can imagine the radio stations are in a language incomprehensible to me and I'm tired of listening to the music on the Ipod. The music i downloaded has now repeated itself several times.

It has taken a couple of weeks of traveling to get a routine with my camping and cleaning , Bev was so pedantic about hygiene in the kitchen area, i can now see why as the mess can get away in a short time.

OLAND is a long narrow island on the Baltic coast of Sweden down from Stockholm about 500 k . This is where we think my Great grandfather originated from. I had called to Borgholm three years ago on a flying three day break from London .

We have a photo which we utilized for the family reunion document, depicting the family home in Borgholm. My cousin Jon Olson found this house when he was in Sweden about 15 years ago. The house has been demolished an council flats ate now gracing the site. At the library i was able to identify the particular house and talk with the locals about it . Apparently it was an old stone house used as a 'Poor House' also used for people with 'Venerial Disease', back in the 1860 when famine and political changes took place .

My research on the emigration data base indicted the 46,000 people with derivations of the name OLSON left Sweden for north America alone . As my Great Great was not on this list then he could well have left as a sailor and worked his passage to seek his fortune. I have to try to find the Parish he was born in which will help the researchers find the old links .

I lingered to long with my research and forgot about my parking meter . Shit I received an polite request to pay a 850sk fine . To compound this it took an other hour to find the place to pay the bloody fine before i left town . I was tempted to bugger off and not pay but now all these traffic infringement and parking fines get processed and sent to the owner at your expense, new UE rules. I want to avoid any bad debt scenario.

Even though the weather was poor with high winds and occasional showers i wanted to have a look at the landscape of Oland . The southern tip of Oland is designated a world heritage site. There are a multitude of pre history sites , ancient tombs, fortifications from the iron age and an area called Alveret . This is like parkahi soils on the West Coast of New Zealand , poor soils with limestone underneath with an array of wild flowers and unique plants .

Farming, dairy and mix cropping, surrounds the central plain and animals graze the Alveret. Windmills new and old dot the landscape . I had struck it lucky, the birds where migrating south with their young. The weather , blowing hard , had held them up at the tipof the island . They were in their thousands, geese, swans, shag and array sea birds. the conservation Department have a capture program at the tip of the island trying to mark and measure the birds of all description. There is a strong smell of rotten seaweed which pervades the air, i couldn't get used to it in the time i was a on the island. I went back to Kelmar on the mainland for the night as i knew i could get an Internet link form there .

I was now at the south of Sweden, in the province of Scane. Most of Sweden's population live in the south in this geographical area. The country side is in full flush. Wheat and barley crops look a picture blowing in the wind . Farmsteads are generally well painted in Red and White trim or Yellow and White which gives a distinctive rural scene. No rubbish or old implements are laying about and most of the tractors are modern with all the mod cons.

I noticed five badgers killed on the road today . It could be silly season for them as well as this does seem a high number of road kill in one day. Badgers harbor TB in the UK and farmers want to eradicate them as vermin. These animals where all fully grown but could have been this years juviniles, learning the rules of the road.

There is a several ways to leave Sweden down south , Ferries cross to Denmark, Germany and Poland the massive bridge structure linking Malmo Sweden and Copenhagen is about 40 KM long . My choice was to take the 8 hr ferry across to Poland's Swimoujscle. The cost of a campervan and one person was supposed to be 1800 Swedish Krone one way, The ticketing girl was obviously new on the job and only heard me say "Small Camping Car". I therefore cross the Baltic for only 800 skr . I feel as though I have retrieved my parking fine.

So I write this Mid Baltic following my ancient Viking ancestors on there way to plunder and pillage mainland Europe

I wonder what will happen next

Alvin

SWEDEN

Thursday 20^th June

Central Sweden

I crossed over to Sweden last night and found a spot down a side road beside a Mountain lake. I can hear the main road above me but to all extents I'm isolated . I decided to have a 'no drive day'. I needed to wash some clothes and tidy the van. The insect impact on the bonnet of the van is summit to behold. I was feeling tired from my travels and felt like a days rest. My log indicates i have covered 4100km not counting the distance traveled in ferry's

This lake is about 10 km long ans 1 to 2 km across , glacial formed with large boulders on the shore line the surrounding hills are low and rolling covered with coniferous forest. There is a man made earth works across the other side and an outlet construction but that is the only evidence that the landscape has been changed. On closer examination, the scotch pine trees about 30 feet tall interspersed with Silver Beech. The under growth is low and soft and spongy to walk on . I'm sure it is covered in snow most of the year. I came through a mountain pass at the border, melting snow either side of the road no snow around here.

The lake is cold and clear. I washed myself this morning and attended to the bit of clothes washing, the temp soon moved up to the 20s by 0900hrs. In the bush beside the van I can hear small animals in the trees and scrub. It took a while to identify a family of red squirrels which are bigger than the London Grays. They have a very bushy tails and ears with extended hair giving them a comical look.

Ants are in abundance in the undergrowth and all round the van, larger than normal and have quite a nip when they get on to your bear skin. Small migges 's and mosquitoes are present. I have had to kept the van closed to get any respite. The occasional bee, wasp and hornet comes a visiting. They are escorted out smartly.

Bird life seems scarce. This morning I could see a few ducks and geese and can hear then chattering away somewhere. About two hundred yards of shore a family / flock of 8 'Black necked divers' cruised by fishing. They attracted several Arctic Terns who were opportunist and swooping down attempting to snatch the catch as the Divers surfaced. I suppose they are rearing chicks nearby also. Across the lake i can see an Eagle's nest high up in a half dead pine tree. It a substantial construction which sticks out against the skyline. No sign of inhabitants, I think the nesting activity has happened. Ill keep and eye out this evening. Its location is ideal as the eagle can come down at speed to the lake.

Spring growth gives a vibrancy to the landscape, I have been watching out for Elk, Reindeer, Moose but have only seen a badger sized unidentified animal scurry across the road in the distance. There is so much grass and pasture about at present that it is unlikely that any animal will appear on the lake shore today.

Have been reading the book my brother in law Bill, gave me when we were in Florida . 'Undaunted Courage', about the early exploration of the American West, following the big rivers the Missouri and Columbia. I read with interest about the tenacity of Grizzly Bears. They hate being shot and will charge even though they have been hit mortally several times. A zoo in the next town ORSA has a collection of Brown Bears. Apparently I'm in the heart of Sweden's brown bear country. Ill ensure the windows and doors are firm tonight. It will one more thing to watch out for over my shoulder, when im having my wash by the lake in the morning.

Sweden alone is twice as big as Britain and it will take a lot of driving to get north.

I'm still tempted to go up beyond the polar circle, and will probably leave the van at a place called SVEG .... I will check out the price of the train north tomorrow and make my plans from there. The 23^rd June will be a big day in Scandinavia as they celebrate Mid Summers Day

I wonder what will happen next

Friday 23rd Sweden

Log Number 14

Have you ever had that sinking feeling when you switch on the Key to the van or car and hear a low grind to the starter motor. Bugger I had run my main battery down . Looking around it was the Cassette Player , Passenger Seat warmer and excessive pull down to power the bloody laptop.

Options without jump leads where slim. Hitched back to the next town to organize assistance. Sven my new friend and savior was knowledgeable about the environment, wildlife, history and future of his Kommune. He chatted, I pumped as we drove back to the van. He was amazed at where i had chosen to park because two weeks earlier he had been instrumental in helping the Police apprehend 'Eagle Nest Robbers' who had utilized the same spot.

He had seen a car , with foreign plates, parked in the spot for three days. No tent or sign of activity. He thought those buggers are up to something and suspected egg thieves as it was Bird nesting time. He informed the police who called to the spot . No arrests where made but the info passed on to central and Boarder Police. Just last week he heard back from the police that two Germans where arrested , they had climbing gear and incubators with two eagle eggs.

He told me, with great enthusiasm, of the Bear Park down in ORCA which i made my destination having a late start to my day. It closed at 1700hrs but the drive up to the hills was relaxing as i seemed to be the only traffic on the road. A female Moose was grazing by the side of the road . Initially she moved away but soon settled and began snatching at new growth on shrubs and bushes. I kept the motor running while i grabbed the video camera from the back . She posed for me for 5 minutes or so before loosing interest.

The bear park is unique in Scandinavia, The carnivorous are having a rough time of it right across Europe and numbers have reduced drastically. This venture is to help conserve and better understand the bear and its needs. The European Brown bear and the Massive Kamchatka Bears where on display in well set out compounds . Viewing platforms high up give a clear view into the hectare sized enclosures . Mothers with Cubs, last year young browns along with several breeding adult browns . They are very active and alert . Feed time was still four hours away.

Other enclosures had Wolverines , I think the one I seen was balmy , it wold run and stop turn and twist sniff and snort in a repeated fashion. I assumed its behavior has arisen from incarceration in a small area for too long. A wolf pack of about 10 wolves in total held my interest . I watched them through the binoculars . Easy to follow when they are on the move but as soon as the stop the blend in with the surroundings and disappear . They were being stimulated by the zoo keeper driving through their enclosure on a 4X4 Motorbike

The biggest Bears I have ever seen where in a separate enclosure. These breeding pair where from northern Russia originally and had recently arrived from a zoo in Hungry. When the big male stood up i couldn't believe my eyes . He was as tall as me in the saddle . An interpretation panel nearby demonstrated that when he stood on his hind legs he was over 3meters tall.

Back in the town of Lakesund, I found a nice spot to park the van for my afternoons rest following my exertion in the morning . Pointing down hill of course . I awoke from my nap to see three women gathering wild flowers around the van . This was in preparedness for the midsummer festival to be held latter in the day

On the river nearby, three longboat were being prepared to bring a party down the river to the main town harbor . The occupants bought with them wreathes in the form of hearts and circles to attach to a may pole in the city gardens . The procession was accompanied by a band playing violins and flutes . All participants where dressed in period costume from the turn if the century. The raising of the May Pole requires about thirty men with cross sticks of varying lengths . As the pole is raised the lifting teams move their supporting poles towards the base thus moving the May Pole to an erect position . All of this process takes time and the band continues to play while dancing and speech making continues

When finally the May Pole is vertical the whole town of about 5,000 people join hands and dance in a circle around the central Pole. Even though there had been a light sprinkling of rain the dust was soon raised and the tempo of the dancing increased along with a variety of different dance moves .

I had set precedence for parking where i planned to stop for the night, when i got back to the van the whole area around me of approximately an acre, was filled with camper vans intent on not paying at the camping Sites .

Next day , down to Stockholm a five hour drive .

I wonder what will happen Next

Sweden Oland

29^th July 2007

Log Number 14

500 kms south of Stockholm was my next destination. My Great Great Grandfather was born on Oland in 1847. He had a brother Peter and that is the basis of my information to try to find some ancestry.

The weather had turned for the worst, cold and blustery rocking the van round on the highway and making driving more difficult. I generally drive for about 2 hrs before i have a break . It surprising who you can meet buring breaks, on the road . Swedes are very helpful and want to tell you about their country and some nice spots to call into for the breaks .

The laptop has been a good investment , helped me keep track of my outgoings and I have logged where have been camping, according to latitude and longitude. The spreads sheet also encompasses the mileage , temperature and fuel use . All to be analyzed in the future . Wi Fi connection to the outside world is also becoming very prevalent. It is not often that i cant get a connection by pulling up in the centrum or in a densely populated area .

After an evening meal I generally rest for a while then pull out the laptop and link with friends and family. Thanks to those who are keeping me updated with events in their lives. You can imagine the radio stations are in a language incomprehensible to me and I'm tired of listening to the music on the Ipod. The music i downloaded has now repeated itself several times.

It has taken a couple of weeks of traveling to get a routine with my camping and cleaning , Bev was so pedantic about hygiene in the kitchen area, i can now see why as the mess can get away in a short time. I try not to use the toilet facilities in the van because even with infrequent use, it still requires an effort to attend to dumping.

OLAND is a long narrow island on the Baltic coast of Sweden down from Stockholm about 500 k . This is where we think my Great grandfather originated from. I had called to Borgholm three years ago on a flying three day break from London . We have a photo which we utilized for the family reunion document, depicting the family home in Borgholm. My cousin Jon Olson found this house when he was in Sweden about 15 years ago. The house has been demolished an council flats ate now gracing the site.

At the library i was able to identify the particular house and talk with the locals about it . Apparently it was an old stone house used as a 'Poor House' also used for people with 'Venerial Disease', back in the 1860 when famine and political changes took place . My research on the emigration data base indicted the 46,000 people with derivations of the name OLSON left Sweden for north America alone . As my Great Great was not on this list then he could well have left as a sailor and worked his passage to seek his fortune. I have to try to find the Parish he was born in which will help the researchers find the old links .

I lingered to long with my research and forgot about my parking meter . Shit I received an polite request to pay a 850sk fine . To compound this it took an other hour to find the place to pay the bloody fine before i left town . I was tempted to bugger off and not pay but now all these traffic infringement and parking fines get processed and sent to the owner at your expense, new UE rules. I want to avoid any bad debt scenario.

Even though the weather was poor with high winds and occasional showers i wanted to have a look at the landscape of Oland . The southern tip of Oland is designated a world heritage site. There are a multitude of pre history sites , ancient tombs, fortifications from the iron age and an area called Alveret . This is like parkahi soils on the West Coast of New Zealand , poor soils with limestone underneath with an array of wild flowers and unique plants .

Farming, dairy and mix cropping, surrounds the central plain and animals graze the Alveret. Windmills new and old dot the landscape and i had struck it lucky the birds where migrating south with their young. The weather , blowing hard , had held them up at the tip. They were in their thousands, geese, swans, shag and array sea birds. the conservation Department have a capture program at the tip of the island trying to mark and measure the birds of all description. There is a strong smell of rotten seaweed which pervades the air, i couldn't get used to it in the time i was a on the island. I went back to Kelmar on the mainland for the night as i knew i could get an Internet link form there

I was now at the south of Sweden, in the province of Scane. Most of Sweden's population live in the south in this geographical area. The country side is in full flush. Wheat and barley crops look a picture blowing in the wind . Farmsteads are generally well painted in Red and White trim or Yellow and White which gives a distinctive rural scene. No rubbish or old implements are laying about and most of the tractors are modern with all the mod cons.

( Bit like you Bernie )

I noticed five badgers killed on the road today . It could be silly season for them as well as this does seem a high number of road kill in one day. Badgers harbor TB in the UK and farmers want to eradicate them as vermin. These animals where all fully grown but could have been this years juviniles, learning the rules of the road.

There is a several ways to leave Sweden down south , Ferries cross to Denmark, Germany and Poland the massive bridge structure linking Malmo Sweden and Copenhagen is about 40 KM long . My choice was to take the 8 hr ferry across to Poland's Swimoujscle. The cost of a campervan and one person was supposed to be 1800 Swedish Krone one way, The ticketing girl was obviously new on the job and only heard me say "Small Camping Car". I therefore cross the Baltic for only 800 skr . I feel as though I have retrieved my parking fine.

So I write this Mid Baltic following my ancient Viking ancestors on there way to plunder, rape and pillage mainland Europe

I wonder what will happen next

Alvin

SWEDEN Broen Bears

Central Sweden

I crossed over to Sweden last night and found a spot down a side road beside a Mountain lake. I can hear the main road above me but to all extents I'm isolated . I decided to have a 'no drive day'. I needed to wash some clothes and tidy the van. The insect impact on the bonnet of the van is something to behold. I was feeling tired from my travels and felt like a days rest. My log indicates I have travelled 4100km not counting the distance traveled in ferry's

This lake is about 10 km long and 1 to 2 km across , glacial formed, with large boulders on the shore line the surrounding hills are low and rolling covered with coniferous forest. There is a man made earth works across the other side and an outlet construction but that is the only evidence that the landscape has been changed. On closer examination, the scotch pine trees about 30 feet tall interspersed with Silver Beech. The under growth is low and soft and spongy to walk on . I'm sure it is covered in snow most of the year. I came through a mountain pass at the border, melting snow either side of the road no snow around here.

The lake is cold and clear. I washed myself this morning and attended to the bit of clothes washing, the temp soon moved up to the 20s by 0900hrs. In the bush beside the van I can hear small animals in the trees and scrub. It took a while to identify a family of red squirrels which are bigger than the London Grays. They have a very bushy tails and ears with extended hair giving them a comical look.

Ants are in abundance in the undergrowth and all round the van, larger than normal and have quite a nip when they get on to your bear skin. Small migges 's and mosquitoes are present. I have had to kept the van closed to get any respite. The occasional bee, wasp and hornet comes a visiting. They are escorted out smartly.

Bird life seems scarce. This morning I could see a few ducks and geese and can hear then chattering away somewhere. About two hundred yards of shore a family / flock of 8 'Black necked divers' cruised by fishing. They attracted several Arctic Terns who were opportunist and swooping down attempting to snatch the catch as the Divers surfaced. I suppose they are rearing chicks nearby also. Across the lake I can see an Eagle's nest high up in a half dead pine tree. It a substantial construction which sticks out against the skyline. No sign of inhabitants, I think the nesting activity has happened. Ill keep and eye out this evening. Its location is ideal as the eagle can come down at speed to the lake.

Spring growth gives a vibrancy to the landscape, I have been watching out for Elk, Reindeer, Moose but have only seen a badger sized unidentified animal scurry across the road in the distance. There is so much grass and pasture about at present that it is unlikely that any animal will appear on the lake shore today.

Have been reading the book my brother in law Bill, gave me when we were in Florida . 'Undaunted Courage', about the early exploration of the American West, following the big rivers the Missouri and Columbia. I read with interest about the tenacity of Grizzly Bears. They hate being shot and will charge even though they have been hit mortally several times. A zoo in the next town ORSA has a collection of Brown Bears. Apparently I'm in the heart of Sweden's brown bear country. Ill ensure the windows and doors are firm tonight. It will one more thing to watch out for over my shoulder, when im having my wash by the lake in the morning.

Sweden alone is twice as big as Britain and it will take a lot of driving to get north.

I'm still tempted to go up beyond the polar circle, and will probably leave the van at a place called SVEG .... I will check out the price of the train north tomorrow and make my plans from there. The 23^rd June will be a big day in Scandinavia as they celebrate Mid Summers Day

I wonder what will happen next

Alvin

NORWAY June 2007

I have been going too hard so far .

Im knackered doing this trip on my own , under estimate the effort required to navigate in a strange country with incomprehensible road signs , drive on the wrong side of the road , clean myself , ADLs, cook, clean, planning , reviewing , photograph, video, write account of trip and to top it all of to relate to people who cant understand a word you are trying to say.

Tonight i have lowered my expectations, had a greasy Burger King meal and chilling out outside some Norwegians house who has an unsecured internet line.

Had the last few days driving through spectacular scenery . Too much , too big and too many corners. Your instinct are to learch to the left when a car appears out of know where . WRONG ! There is so much to take in and the roads are narrow with passing bays along the way.

The birds are nesting at present so they are depleted by 40%. Have seen a range that i have seen in Scotland and a couple i have not seen at all . A book we have on Scottish Birds relates to this area as well . I parked under a large gull rookery today . Set up my bed in the van and watched them fight and squabble as they tried to keep their eggs from getting cold.

Im currently north of the Shetland Islands and about a days drive from the Polar Circle . The highway is called the Atlantic Highway.
Last night the sun was still on the high mountains at midnight. The day never goes to dark just a Gloomy Grey, you can see for miles. I have been surprised at the quantity and quality of the farm land in the valleys .It haymaking season right now so every farmer is busy making hay while the sun shine. I was under the impression that there was bugger all arable land . it is not unlike Marlborough Sounds in NZ, only much bigger

I utilised a ferry to come down a massive Fjord called, Gairanger . Tight walled , high sided with multitude of waterfalls all with fancy names .( the seven sister ) In years gone by, adventurist farmers had sheep ,cows and goats up high below the snow line . Must have been a bitch even getting the animal up there let alone getting any produce out again. I suppose they just threw the bale of wool down to the waiting boats . Probably carried lambs and calves up and let them grow to adulthood up there. All farming in the alpine regions was finished in the 1960s, Uneconomic

The weather has been kind to me so far, It looks a bit rough for tomorrow I want to fishing on the high seas so need to go and find some Norwegian Mates . Well enough of my ramblings

Keep in touch

I WONDER WHAT WILL HAPPEN NEXT

Alvin

SCANDANAVIA TRIP

DEPARTURE 080607

Moving house is always stressful. Bev and I rented a small key worker flat in Woolwich london, for the last two years . Furniture and clothing has accumulated along with an array of electrical gadgets and paraphernalia

Bev has moved back to NZ . Rachel and her will be revamping our flats in readiness for providing Traveler accommodation next summer . Art has always been a desire for Bev, she is in the process of setting up her art Gallery in Hokitika . I have packed tea chest full of the remaining and sent this home . To think we came here with a couple of suitcases and always had restrain when buying goods and clothing.

My last day in the flat was hectic . People coming to collect goods and furniture I had sold on the net. I was putting out the last few bags of rubbish when i heard the click of disaster behind me . Luckily i had put trousers on as i was now standing in the passage way with no way to get back into the flat. I had retrieved me spare keys from my friend in readiness to hand the keys in on Monday . They were neatly arranged on the sink bench inside along with my Mobile and keys to the camper van. .

I utilized the neighbors phone to arrange a Locksmith . £150.00 for an emergency weekend call out. Bugger that what other options. I called my friend to buy me a Tee shirt on her way over and i was bereft of clothing from the waist up.

Monday morning, a bloke form the shop below my flat had blocked me with his car in my usual parking spot . I told him of my dilemma "I used to be a locksmith, Ill open it for you" gratitude bubbled from my lips.

Last year when Bev and I traveled down to Turkey in the Camper van we met an older German couple . They had worn out two Mercedes Camper vans and had covered 400,000 km around the continent . I asked which was their favorite countries . They both answered in unison, Turkey and Norway. We both agreed with there assessment of Turkey. A must do for travelers . Their suggestion that Scandinavia was a top spot remained with me. My ancestors are vikings, hailing from southern Sweden . I have been to the family home in Borgholm and will go back this time with a chance to dig deeper and see if i can find any remaining links from the past .

I have had the van for sale over the last three months . One taker pulled out a month ago and left me with the opportunity to travel north . My work at Oxleas Trust was a temporary nature . I chose when it finished and now I'm ready to venture north .

The usual checks on the van's wellbeing have been carried out, Breaks, Oil, MOT, Insurance, Tyres. Ill try to get another 6000miles out of the back tyre . Probable expose me to more punctures, Ill test my luck.

I have a GPS which covers Scandinavia. New roads and alterations may not be right up to date but hears hoping . The usual safety equipment is aboard . First aid Gear, torches, replenished gas bottles,drinking water. My cupboards are chocker with the food supply from our flat.

I'm a bit addicted to the Internet and had withdrawal symptoms when i parted with the PC in our flat. A quick search of the internet and i had a new Laptop with WI-FI capabilities . It has been a surprise to me how many places have unsecured Internet access. All to my benefit. A site on http://www.multimap.com/ will indicate where the Cafe's and Hotels are that offer this service to guests and Camper van drivers who park temporary in the yard to search and send .

its early June and working towards the shortest day of the year soon. 21^st June I think. I plan to be up beyond the arctic circle by the end of the month. The northern lights, Aurora Borealis is said to be spectacular sight . Parkie has been in the southern Fjords of Norway which by all accounts will be awe inspiring. I plan to be away from England for about two months. Summer has been erratic weather wise so far . We have had some hot days but only into the low 30s . London seems to generate it own heat on hot days, which has the locals panting.

I looked at the Speedo as i pulled out of Woolwich 80880 miles on the clock. My trip planning tells me a further 6000 miles will be added over the next couple of months .

I'm now writing this update sitting above Dover's White cliffs watching Sea France, Norfolk Line and P& O ferries come and go into the harbor. The wind is blowing enough to rock the van. I cant quite see across to France 20 miles away as there is a low haze and sea mist. Grey overcast sky, its early summer in Kent . The wheat crops a full grown and the seed heads have formed . The country side is lush with new growth and abundant wild flowers.

My ferry booking is for an early sailing tomorrow morning. I had hope to be able to bring it forward but the buggers want extra money, I would sooner put it into the fuel tank than into their pockets.

I have scanned my anxieties about the future couple of months. Bev and i have learn to keep our documents and ourselves safe traveling over the last few years. I'm confident in the camper van the mechanics are good, ford transits are great work horses, its facilities are all i need. I will have to do a bit extra to keep it to the standard of tidiness that Bev set on previous trips.

Theft will be a constant risk. I'll try to carry my valuables with me in the back pack. I have a back up British passport now in case I do get rumbled.

I want to get to meet the people in their own environment, The back roads are best in the van. I will visit the museums in the cities but will mainly be in the rural s utilizing back roads

I have trepidation about coming down through the Baltic states from Tallinn in Estonia down to Poland. I have some contacts to link with in Helsinki and will get there advise and guidance before I take that route.

My evening meal tonight is Buckwheat , Red Salmon with a touch of olive oil and parsley. I can eat it out of the pot to save the washing up.

090607

Saturday

Slept soundly , Several other vans parked nearby , I heard one head away for an earlier sailing. I woke at 0430 ,daylight was poking through the sky light as my eyes focused in the gloom

Tomatoes on toast and tea with condensed milk. I had sorted the van last night and was prepared if my internal alarm fail me . I had set the mobile to let out a scream at 0445.

It always surprises me the range of activity at the Port of Dover, one of the busiest ports in Europe. Being midsummer there were hundreds of campers and caravans , Freight truck and Motorcyclist all cued to get on the Ferries comprising the P & O Line, Sea France and My favorite Norfolk Line. My sailing took me north to Dunkirk a two hour crossing . Wi Fi connection for passengers must have played a part in the Norfolk Line company receiving a ferry operators award this year

The motorway north through Belgium was flowing freely. The the right and left is industrial complexes distribution warehouses and manufacturing factories . Hay making is in full swing the farmers will be cursing the enclement weather . Towards the Netherland border the canal become more prevalent. I was tempted to turn off the main drag for a while but the occasional down pore help me decide to remain o the fast route north.

A variety of smells reached my nostrils . The dominant smell in norther netherland is of dairy effluent . It sprayed on the paddock with high pressure pumps leaving the smelly part airborne.

Other smells at of recently milled or treated timber, freshly cut grass , and on occasion, the fragrance of flowers, emitted from massive tunnel houses .

The new three bladed super wind Harvesting generators perched on 100 meter towers are scattered through out Belgium , Netherlands and northern Germany . To help these monsters to blend in the base is painted green shading up to white at usual tree level , It does help to blend the tower into the surrounding environment

Occasionally the traffic comes to a crawl . On one occasion a caravan had flipped on to its side . An elderly German , pale and shaking stood by, looking in disbelief at his smashed up Mercedes Benz and near new caravan.

I had driven most of the day with several stops for s cup pa and chat with fellow travelers . I had covered 460 miles since starting off this morning so called it a day in North east Germany at Oldenburg. Found a quiet truck stop and pulled the curtains

The food tonight is Tomato's on butter fruit bread

100607

Sunday WWW. HOSPITALITY-CLUB.ORG

The night was accompanied by a huge thunderstorm, very heavy rain lightening flashed throught the skylights . I slept well.

I woke at 0530 , toast and a cuppa before hitting the road again . I revered to driving on the left as i pulled out of the truck stop , gave way to a car who intended to turn where i was waiting. He shook his head and drove round me. "stupid Pomms".

The north eastern corner of Germany is rural. Main crops seemed to be Wheat, barley, Rape seed, Corn,as i moved fiurther east towards Hamburg. Forestry and specialist plantations of Ammenity trees broke the natural landscape of pine and willows.

Hamburg Highways where full to overflow . I crept along in second gear for 20 miles . Road works and the shear volume of traffic. The workmen were at home but had left all the barriers and deviations in situ. Overall the roads and road conditions are excellent. They need to be as the highways have an open speedlimit . I can travel at 105 km / Hour. And get passed as if im standing still by modern BMW, Audi's, Merceded Benz, and array of fast Japanese cars.

Due north from hamburg , two hours is the Denmark border, i pulled my Documents in readiness only to find the staff were having the weekend off. No checks or stamps here. I was staring to wilt , and needed to get off the highway . My map indicated scenic routs across to ESBJERG. The fifth largest town in Denmark, Fishing haven for the north sea fleet . A relaxing brew on the wharf watching the ferry depart for UK Harwick, the off shore wind farm boats with their sea legs to spub into the bottom while erecting new towers for wind turbines , and array of support vessels , and thousands of fishing boats . If this many where in port how many where there at sea. I drove through a Fish processing factory . Seemed to be in recess as there was no action or sign of recent activity. The smell was still atrocious with fish oil and old industry. Notable was the lack of bird life, no Gulls of Turns scavenging or waiting for opportunities for food.

Monday 10^th June

Camped it Vardie Town car park . Met Germans

To get a bettr undestanding of the danish country side i took to the B Roads. These are slower and pass through villages and hamlets , The speed limit is 50 KM in the towns . Im sure i had my picture taken for exceeding the limit on one occasion .

Drove back roads to Ferry across to Zealand