POLAND Bailowieza

Poland Bailowieza National Park

Log Number 17

The Bailowieza National Park is the oldest in Poland . Established back in 1921. It's history goes back a long way further because the Tsar's and Kings kept this forest for their private hunting region. A super big palace, hunting lodge was built along with all the associated gardens support staff accommodation and stables.

During WW1 millions of cubic meters of timber was extracted from the park and the gradual colonization of the perimeter has diminished the eco system . Originally there was a full range of european animals including brown bear but these were eliminated to keep the domain for the European Bison for hunting purposes. The total area of the NP is only 10500 Ha which is small compared to most but it is coupled with the adjoining National Park of Belarus, Russia, which is slightly bigger more than doubles the size of lowland forest with NP Status.

There are two special aspects to this NP. One being an area of 47 sq Kilometers of Pristine Primeval lowland forest set between two rivers and the reintroduction of the European Bison which was at the brink of extinction with only a few remaining in Zoos around the world in 1929. Two were bought back to Bailowieza Park to their origin's. Now about 400 live wild in the forest with several hundred more in captive breeding programs around Poland and in other countries.

The pristine primeval lowland Forest is designated a 'Strictly Protected Area' within the surrounding NP. No motorized vehicles are allowed and access is by permit and with a guide. Trees falling across the tracks have to be removed by manual means rather than using chainsaws. There was a break in the weather while I was at Bailowieza, but no groups where booked to go to the SPA. I could have and English speaking guide for about £35.00 , the best investment/ value for money available.

Eric had only recently passed his competency in speaking English but had been a guide to the forest for the last four years. Prior to this he was a forester in another area of Poland so he had a bundle of knowledge about the forest and its inhabitants. He went though his spiel about the history of the park pointing out important monuments to past great Tsars who had boasted of their daily bag of 42 Bisons. He showed me pictures of the hunting lodge before it was deliberately destroyed by fire on Hitlers direct instructions. All that remains is the Main Gates and the stables which has been converted to student accommodation and a Learning Centre.

The Royal Park on the edge of the NP has a garden set out with great vistas towards the SPA. Trees have been brought from all round the world. There have reached the age of 160 yrs and are grand specimens. The walk we went on into the SRA was a total of 7 km . He pointed out all the different trees species mainly Oak, Elm, Spruce, pine and an array of other types.

What was strikingly obvious was the amount of dead wood on the forest floor . In managed forests these may be up to 20% dead wood 80% live wood . In the SPA however this is reversed. The amount of rotting timber and vegetation allows a range of animals to survive where they could not otherwise find enough food source.

The Height of the forest canopy averaged between 60 and up to 85 meters for the tallest Spruce .500 year old Oaks had gun-barrel straight trunks for the first 30 mts before the first branch, They think the trees don't grow past 600 yrs old in this forest because of the Humidity, Fungi and stem to root ration. In England oaks are generally low and sprawling with massive root structures enabling them to have over a thousand birthdays. The Spar Pine was over one meter at breast height and straight and true up to 40 mts to the first branch. This type of tree was very sort after when sailing ships where all the go.

Woodpeckers have found paradise here. There are twelve species of woodpecker some small some colorful and the largest black woodpecker has a body the size of your fist . His holes into dead spruce stand out. Eric pointed out how carefully they are constructed. The top of the hole has a hood or porch and the bottom has an incline from the bottom of the hole back up into the center to drain any water that runs down the tree away from the nest site. Clever Birds.

Given the mass of undergrowth and rotting wood , there is a myriad of Bug, Insects, Worms, Fungi that kept Eric's presentation interesting and informative. There has been traces of ancient neolithic pottery found and traces of ancient human activity and grave sites. Honey bee keeping was a small activity that was allowed by the Tzar's up until the turn of the century. Bee keepers made caver ties high up in the massive trees to encourage bees to build hives. The Brown Bear also likes honey and the keepers devised a method to help deter the Bear from robbing the honey . They dangled heavy Oak Posts from points higher up the tree so that it required the bear to push it way to gain entry to the hive. This would frustrate the bear and he would strike at the post sending it out of the way . This would have to effect of either deterring or cause the bear to fall to the ground. Spiked poles were placed strategically at the base of the tree for any such eventuality.

My three hour personalized guided tour was fabulous. I asked him about the Tsar who claimed to have killed 42 Bison in one day. To me it was impossible in the type of forest as one shot would have scattered the Bison herd for miles and would have made them very gun shy. Eric enlightened me that evidence of several corals had been found . On the side of the coral had a large wooden platform for the Fat Tsar to sit up in comfort. The animals where probably lured into the enclose with food and then driven past the shooting platform so the Tsar could have a safe shot at close quarters. More like a slaughter house than natural hunting.

The undergrowth had nettles and a stinking plant called wound-wart. It smelt like a dead decomposing mouse, a pungent pong that you could get a whiff of every now and again . A light rain added to the ambiance of the forest, light was able to penetrate down to the undergrowth especially where spruce trees had died off after an infection of Spruce beetle attack. Woodpeckers could be heard tapping at trees. We could see where the woodies had been placing pine cones in crevices on the Oak trees for their winter food supply.

I visited the Museum of the National Park, again i had to pay for a guide to show me around. The stuffed animals which are presented in their natural surroundings, Beaver,Otter, Pine matins, Wolves, elk, Red Deer, Roe Deer, Bears and Wild Boar to name a few. Last year was a good year for oaks and there was an abundance of acorns therefore a lot of the young wild boar survived to adulthood. The forest dwelling birds are a subject on their own but I'm sure you will have had enough of my rabbiting on .

One more thing . Timber is cut in the fall / autumn and left until the ground freezes that way it will slide across the ground with minimal impact on the vegetation and a pair of draught horse can easily pull either a slay or the individual logs. Two things, the rare black stork lives on the river edge in the SPA they have different diet needs to the common white stork who live on frogs and insect in close proximity to human populations. Enough Rabbiting, I enjoyed the National Park being a Verderer myself

I wonder what will happen next.

Alvin