Charters Towers 17th

“Take seat 2 D” was the instructions from the bus driver of the big red Greyhound Bus as I stepped forward to board. I met Allan who was allocated 2 C. He was on his way back out to the Gulf. His truck had developed mechanical problems too complicated for his knowledge and bush skills. He said would have to come back to Townsville in two weeks time to pick up his 10 ton Isuzu.

The two hour trip out to Charters Towers was informative and entertaining. Alan told me that he was picking up another truck at Richmond,loading up with 30 unbroken horses, then travelling 14 hrs back up to the gulf station beyond Normanton. The Gulf spread was the breeding base for 24,000 head of Brahman cattle. Alan talked about the management of such a large enterprise. I was interested in who and how the young horses where going to be broken in to stock horses. He assured me, this was the job of the ringers. They got to chose the replacement horses who have to be spelled off the gulf country after a stint of 10 mths or so .

Helicopter mustering is the most effective way to move stock, on mass. The foreman or the Boss ride in the Robinson R22 . Blocks of thousands of acres are fenced in a fashion that comprise a range of land and vegetation types. Permanent water in the form of rivers and lakes are incorporated into the large grazing blocks . Jump ups or areas of high ground are essential elements of these blocks allowing the stock to be able to move to higher ground during the wet or if a hurricane comes through .

A series of 18 windmills pump water to turkey nests, a excavated water dam. This allowed for gravity to be utilised to feed water troughs away from the dam, via polythene pipes. Each windmill has a landing strip near by so that the windmills can be serviced and quickly locked down if a hurricane or strong blow is imminent.

Since the advent of helicopter mustering the fencing of the station has changed . Stock on the larger blocks are moved to fenced races about 200 meters wide and up to 60 km in length . These races terminate at a major set of stock yards . Alan told me that there was four sets of yards away from the main homestead. Stock can be move about 30 km each day and can be encouraged to move on towards the yards by eliminating the water in their host blocks. The Owner has three fattening farms/ stations near Richmond, a mere 7 hr drive from Townsville, to bring the yearling's down to be fattened and sent to market.

Gold was found in Charters Towers in 1871 an the town soon grew to be the second biggest city in Queensland at it peak in 1900. Relics of a couple of the 29 crushing mills remain as tourist attractions. 40 or so turn of the century buildings have been restored or renovated and add a unique character to Charters Towers. An impressive stock exchange, built in 1888, incorporates an arcade of shops now tourist shops with souvenirs and coffee for sale. It has retains its grandeur over the century or so. The World theater has been restored and a great asset for the community.

I took in several museums, wandered the mine sites and absorbed the interpretation panels spread through out the city. The light on sunset was ideal for photograph as the imposing 1890 buildings were a stark contrast to the surrounding landscape.

I chose and old hotel for my overnight accommodation. Big veranda around the upper story , two bars and a large dining hall now with an are divided off and full of chattering Pokies. While quenching my thirst in he bar i struck up conversations with the local piss pots. Minimal information could be gleamed as the were more interested in the XXXX midi in front of them.

I was invited to join a couple of fair dinkum Aussies at the dining table. They had called into town for their supplies from a small outlying area. They told me of their health ailments and bemoaned the encroachment of civilization towards there 100 acre block. He had been a saw miller in his fifties and worked for a short time in Papaua New Guinea in the logging industry . They now run a few head of stock and watched the birds into their retirement.

My bedroom, $ 40.00, was recently repainted, the bed and bedding was new. The walls between rooms are exposed studs with tongue and groove paneling on one side only. The external wall had 2 large doors which when open exposed the bedroom to the external veranda , A breeze through the room was welcome. I could imagine the oppressive heat during the summer months.

I wonder what will happen next